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Ice mountain climbing





General description
The highest mountain in the Cordillera Blanca is Huascaran with its two summits: the north peak (6655m) and the south peak (6768m). This last one is very demanding and attempted by thousands of climbers, professionals as well as amateurs. The total program of climbing takes seven days (including one day for security measures). In addition to the approximation camps (base camp and moraine camp), there are two altitude camps. Because of the altitude of the camps and the snow conditions, you need to be well acclimatised and to have a good physical condition.
Its geography has a variety of difficulties that go from enormous crevasses to sections of very hard ice. These difficulties in the normal route can change from year to year due to the  climatologic conditions. Furthermore, there are slopes with inclinations up to 60 degrees in the access. The highest summit in Peru offers a unique view over the whole Cordillera Blanca and Negra and in the east the Cordillera Oriental, where it meets Amazonia.


Technical information
Classification : difficult
Duration : seven days
Access / exit: Musho, village situated at the foot of Huascaran (from the city of Yungay / Caraz)
Minimum altitude: 3050m (Musho)
Maximum altitude: 6768m..


Day 1
Transport from Caraz to the village of Musho (3100m), starting and ending point of the expedition.
Walking up to the base camp of Huascaran (4300m), located on a terrace in the middle of big granitic formations.
Total time: 6 to 7 hours.

Day 2
Ascension to the moraine camp (4800m). We go across rocky platforms and some short walls (easy to climb). The day in this camp is usually seen as security and acclimatisation day. In consideration of the weather conditions or the physical state, any of the first four days could be seen as the security day. Because of this, the order of the days may vary.
Total time: 3 to 4 hours.

Day 3
Ascension to the first altitude camp (camp nr. 1 on 5250m). We first climb some sections of rocky platforms, before we reach the glacier, where we continue the ascension of CAMP 1.
Total time: 4 to 5 hours.

Day 4
Climbing to approach CAMP 2 (5980m). Needs an effort to overcome a classical ice field with a crevasse underneath. By climbing up northwards, we go on to the collar where the two peaks meet. Some meters down the collar is the camp site.  
Total time: 5 to 6 hours.

Day 5
On this day we tackle the south peak (6768m). First, we reach the bottleneck of the two peaks, then we gradually climb to the summit, overcoming sections of hard ice and some crevasses. Return to camp 2 of if possible to camp 1.
Total time: 10 to 11 hours.

Day 6
Descent from camp 2 or 1 to the base camp on 4300 meters.
Total time: 4 to 6 hours.

Day 7
Descent and return to the village of Musho. Transport by bus to the city of Caraz.
Total time: 5 to 6 hours.

Before you climb this mountain, it is important to do easier mountaineering of little technical difficulty and less altitude to acclimatise..


Rates on request - Ask for groups discounts
Reservations Department
Ice Mountain Climbing
Main Headquarter
G.Barron Nº 3816
Condevilla SMP
Lima Peru

Email Contact : toursperu@outlook.comPhone : 0051 + 999017609
WhatsApp0051 + 999017609
S. Guzman Barron # 3816 - Condevilla SMP Lima 31 South America Peru
Trippers Peru : Tours & Travel Agency │ Machu Picchu Peru Tours





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